ingredients determine the quality of food, just as cosmetic raw materials determine the quality of cosmetics, especially special cosmetics, raw materials are particularly important in highlighting product safety, stability, and efficacy. in recent years, with the efforts of colleagues in many industries, some new progress has been made in special cosmetic raw materials. now, it has entered the season where consumers have the strongest sunscreen effect on cosmetics - summer. sunscreen agent, the main raw material in sunscreen cosmetics, has once again become the key point of attention for consumers.
2021what new opportunities will be available for sunscreen cosmetics in 2019? what new trends will appear in the market?
trend 1: the concept of sun protection and the expansion of scope
with the in-depth study of light on the skin damage, people have gradually realized that not only ultraviolet rays ( UVA/UVB） it can cause damage to human skin, and it can also be high-energy blue light ( HEV）、 infrared( IR） it can also cause damage to people's skin. the corresponding full-band sun protection concept has also expanded the range: from the original ultraviolet rays ( UVA/UVB） protection, developed to the present ultraviolet rays ( UVA/UVB）、 high-energy blue light ( HEV）、 infrared( IR） protection; and sun protection has developed from protection against sunlight to modern protection of sunlight, electronic products (computers, mobile phones), and artificial light sources, that is, prevention of expanded changes in the object.
trend 2: natural active substances have become hot research
finding the active ingredients that can act as sunscreen from natural substances; it can stabilize the natural active substances that already have sunscreens; it can act as natural active substances that can act as post-sun repair. this is a hot topic of current research and one of the current directions for cosmetic raw material manufacturers. its advantage lies in its human body and environmental friendliness. the above three active substances have different mechanisms of function. natural extracts that directly absorb ultraviolet rays contain benzene rings or conjugated structures, so they can directly absorb ultraviolet rays.
for example: launched by givaudan Karanja Oil hairless water yellow-skin seed oil has the function of absorbing ultraviolet rays due to its unique structure; lignin contains functional groups such as aryl groups, phenolic hydroxyl groups, ketone groups and carboxyl groups, which have the function of absorbing ultraviolet rays. although active substances that are repaired after the skin are not directly absorbed or reflected ultraviolet rays, they generally reduce the occurrence of erythema of human skin and reduce inflammatory factors through the skin's reaction pathway.
for example: zhang hao has shown through research that aloe vera gel can effectively reduce keratinocytes during UVB inflammatory cytokines after irradiation IL-1α、IL-8 secretion. by adding the above functional substances, the use of sunscreen can be reduced, which not only saves costs and increases the safety of the formula, but also makes the formula easier to formulate, reducing the greasiness of the formula, and has great comprehensive benefits in safety, efficacy, sensoryness and cost saving. at present, more and more sunscreen products are added with natural active substances with the above effects to optimize the performance of the formula.
trend 3: technology development and application tend to mature
wrapped chemical sunscreen
envelope chemical sunscreen refers to the wrapping of chemical sunscreen through other substances. it has the following four advantages: 1. the stability of chemical sunscreen is greatly improved, thereby improving the sun protection efficiency of sunscreen; 2. the hydrophilicity and permeability of the wall materials determine the dispersion performance of the sunscreen, making the chemical sunscreen more easily and evenly dispersed in the formula. we can wrap the chemical sunscreen in the hydrophilic external wall material, so that the chemical sunscreen is dispersed in water; 3. the chemical sunscreen does not directly contact the skin through the wrapping form, which can reduce the transdermal absorption of the products of small molecule sunscreen and sunscreen after light decomposition, which can better protect the human skin; 4. by finding suitable wall materials, a better skin feeling can be achieved.
when designing this type of sunscreen, the comprehensive consideration of technical points include: sunscreen of safety, efficacy, stability to obtain excellent wrap-around sunscreen. yu mingying prepared a composite sunscreen microsphere, which was loaded simultaneously TiO2 and baozai avobenzone of compound microsphere structure, which not only protects light-visibility instability of avobenzone, while improving physical sunscreen whitening of question. the following are Merck of silicone wrapping series, Sunjin of PMMA package series, TAGRA of cellulose wrapping series.
surface modification and microstructure control of physical sunscreens
although the only physical sunscreens used in the state are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, through surface modification and microstructure control, there are far more physical sunscreens than chemical sunscreens. when engineers use physical sunscreens, one of the technical difficulties is the dispersion of physical sunscreens, which not only affects the stability and uniformity of the formula, but also affects its effectiveness. how to better disperse physical sunscreen through modification
preparation of sunscreen composition
when using sunscreen, the compatibility of sunscreen and the solubility of chemical sunscreens should be considered. therefore, only engineers who have been engaged in sunscreen product development for a long time can better prepare safe, stable and good skin-feeling sunscreen products. to make it easier for engineers to formulate sunscreen formulas, one or more of physical sunscreens, chemical sunscreens, and oils can be prepared together and sold in semi-finished products. although this avoids the lack of engineer experience, it also limits the flexibility of formula formulation.
trend 4: institutionalization of sunscreen product efficacy evaluation system
only after passing the efficacy test can it support the listing claim
the efficacy tests of sunscreen products mainly include in vitro and human methods. in vitro method is simple and convenient and cost-saving. it is a common method for preliminary screening of sunscreen formulas, and it is different from the indicators measured by human body method. the corresponding standard methods are: international standards ISO 24443:2012 Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro》; eu COLIPA guide UVA protective in vitro assay Method for in vitro determination of UVA protection》； my country's entry and exit inspection and quarantine industry standard "sunscreen cosmetics" UVA method for determining protective effect in vitro"; my country's "cosmetic safety technical specifications" cosmetics anti-cosmetics UVA capacity instrument determination method. instruments used in vitro methods are: SPF 290AS，Cary 300，UV2000S，UVAPF IN VITRO Analyzer。
human body law has the characteristics of long cycle and high cost. my country's "technical specifications for cosmetic safety" stipulates the sunscreen products. SPF value, PA the human body method test method is used to support the effectiveness of sunscreen products.
the evaluation method of anti-blue light and anti-infrared cosmetics is becoming more perfect
with the development of dermatology, the impact of blue light and infrared on the skin has gradually become clear. research in this field is a hot topic in dermatology research. what followed is a variety of anti-blue light cosmetic raw materials emerging on the market. in order to more scientifically illustrate the efficacy of anti-blue light products, the efficacy evaluation method of cosmetics anti-blue light has also been introduced: GB/T 38120-2019 the light safety test method of blue light protective film (skin protection) stipulates the test method of blue light protective film anti-blue light cosmetics in the technical requirements for light health and light safety application of blue light protective film.
in addition to anti-blue light products, more and more anti-infrared cosmetics are emerging on the market. how to evaluate the efficacy of anti-infrared cosmetics? the cosmetics industry does not have current methods, standards and supervision, but more and more raw material suppliers in the industry are developing anti-infrared methods. Helioscreen the laboratory has developed an in vitro test method to test products that claim to have infrared-proofing effects.
